Flex-Tube PV PVC Clear Duct Hose - 4" ID, 0.032" Wall Thickness, 25 Feet Length - Ideal for HVAC, Dust Collection, and Industrial Ventilation Systems

I use this hose to connect woodworking tools to my dust collection system. I've purchased all sorts of hose over the years including the top brands like kanaflex, santoprene (now foxiflex I think) and flexhaust as well as many other cheaper hoses which mostly fall in a general category I'll call crap. This Flex-Tube hose is about the best I've seen. It has a very sturdy external rib, is pretty transparent, and quite flexible even in the 6" size I bought. But there are a couple things worth knowing if you plan to use it in a woodshop dust collection environment. And, no I'm not talking about the so-called risks of pvc for dust collection.The issues you might want to know about are what it will or won't connect to and how. So, for starters, it WILL FIT OVER typical SNAPLOCK type metal pipe used in dust collection. It might take a little lube but it will go on and can be secured with a clamp. It WILL NOT FIT OVER PVC pipe whether that is schedule 40, SDR 35 (ASTM 3034) or Sewer & Drain (S&D or ASTM 2729). All these pvc pipes have the same OD and there is no way this hose can be slipped, stretched or otherwise coerced to fit over it. No way.I had visions of putting my hose ends INSIDE PVC pipe fittings and securing them there with caulk and then using those fittings as quick-connects onto my PVC pipe ducts. There are references to doing this in a number of woodworking forums but I can see now that approach applies only to cheap hoses. The ribs on this hose are far too big. This hose WILL NOT FIT INSIDE PVC FITTINGS. I've only checked with the 6" hose I bought but I'm quite sure this will be the case for 4" hose as well. My first thought was that I could force it in there. Yeah, right. Plan B was to grind down the rib with a dremel tool or in my case a rasp in a rotary handpiece run by a flex shaft off my drill press. After half an hour I came to the realization that I would have to remove the rib almost completely to make it fit and the odds of removing nearly the whole rib without cutting the hose itself were about zero.So, here are some options that will work. You can glue a short sleeve of S&D ASTM 2729 inside the fitting. A short chunk of metal snaplock then fits nicely into that sleeve and you can slip the hose over the snaplock and secure it with a clamp. Note that this will only work with the thin wall S&D. A sleeve of SDR 35 has a thicker wall and you would not be able to get the snaplock inside it. Or, and this is what I ended up doing, you can heat up the pvc fitting with a heat gun, flare it out a bit by gloved hand while it's still hot and then slip (more like wrestle) the hose into the fitting. On the 6" pipe it takes me at least ten minutes of heating before the pipe fitting bell is soft enough to do this. Once you're done heating you've got to get the hose shoved inside the fitting pretty quickly as the fitting cools and hardens fast. Once things are cooled down, the hose is in there pretty much for good I think but I ran a bead of silicone caulk around the hose/fitting joint just to make sure there weren't any air leaks.